Last Day Bangkok

It's hard to give up Bangkok. It's so alive and vibrant. There's such a diverse culture and the politics are fascinating. Thai food is absolutely, hands down, the best. You could stay in Bangkok for two weeks alone and not scratch the surface.

The students leave at 6 a.m. in the morning, I follow Monday morning at the same time. It's hard to say goodbye after such an excellent learning experience, but we'll see each other again and I know that in some very good ways they are different people.

More reflections later.

A Quick Word

We are in Bangkok and had a nice visit today at Young and Rubicam in Siam Towers. An interesting mix of pr, advertising, and marketing communication. This group has a strong client portfolio and I think the group was truly impressed by what they heard. Lots of talk about branding and "brand dna."

It was interesting to hear that the King of Thailand is the most credible brand in Thailand. I've been here three times, no big surprise. But can you imaging George Bush being the most credible person in the US?

A nice cheap lunch at MBK center near Siam Tower.

Tomorrow a visit to Bangkok University and my friend Peeraya to see their School of Communication and its facilities, faculty, and students.

Saturday is pure pleasure at the Tiger Temple near Burma. Sunday troops leave. People already getting sad about the departure. I'll miss them too. I leave Monday.

Wet Market

Got up this morning and walked to the wet market a block away from Madam Cuc's 127 Hotel where we stayed. Love wet markets which is where people go to buy groceries for the day: fish, fruit, veggies, everything.

I really enjoy the smells and sounds of all of these goings on. One woman sells live fish which she summarily kills before she weighs for the customer. Another woman chases the eel that escaped her tub and slithers across the floor. Another person sells Durian, which I really really hate. In other places in the market people eat, talk, drink tea, etc.

Right this minute I'm in an internet place with some of the troops waiting to leave for the airport. Loud group, really loud.

While I Am At It

Visited three things which put a new twist on US perceptions of Southeast Asia: War Remnants Museum, Renunification Palace, and Cu Chi (sp?) tunnels outside HCMC. I'll put pictures elsewhere but the thing that struck me was the difference in perceptions of what happened 1963-73.

Of course, you must understand that these places are run by the government of Vietnam which is socialist/capitalist . . . whatever. The message is clear. The US invaded where they shouldn't have, they were colonialist, we beat they, they left, it's over, let's move on. It's an interesting message which is, of course, full of silly propaganda and leaves the impression that hardly any Vietnamese were killed.

One museum portrays American atrocities and I have no doubt that some terrible things were done. What is not mentioned is all the atrocities committed by the Vietnamese against Americans and South Vietnamese as well as native peoples. In the end it becomes almost comic.

The thing is that the average Vietnamese person doesn't give a rip. They've moved on. They won, they're done. They like Americans, they seem glad we're here, they are quiet and polite.

Aside from the heat I really like Vietname and would like to spend more time here. It is hot here though and you wear out faster than you think.

Everyone here seems to have a cell phone and internet access is easy and cheap. Vietnames are a highly literate society (70%) and highly motivated to succeed. They want investment and things are growing here.

We met with TQPR who is, according to them, the first global pr agency in Vietnam. Their manager is Australian and they seem to be doing well with the right accounts. PR here is a new concept and one that would seem to contract a socialist perspective. I took them a while to get their license but that work well here within government restrictions. Yes, they arrest bloggers here too.

Media corruption is rampant. If you want a story placed there must be an envelope in the media kit. I am told that there are some fine Vietnamese journalism but some who aren't.

Off to Bangkok today, then home for students on Sunday, I leave Monday.

More later.

Catching Up

It's been a while since I've had the chance to sit down and write. This is why blogging is such hard work, requiring discipline.

We are in HCMC which I personally like better than Phnom Penh. It's cleaner here for one thing. It is, however, a city of 11 million people crammed with motor cycles of various sorts but not so many cards. I am told you can buy onw for about $400 USD and gas is twice as much as it was a year ago but the 125cc engines here sip rather than gulp.

You'll see entire families on them, going about their daily routine of shopping, work, and entertainment. There are parents with small children and people with older family members aboard. There is lots of horn honking and noise on the stree where so much of life is lived.

There's no room on the sidewalks because this is where people congregate, park their motorbikes, shop, eat, etc. It's a crowded, loud, vibrant mess.

I should write an entire blog on how to cross the street in Vietnam but won't . . . here goes. Approach the street and do not be intimidate by the fact that there are thousands of vehicles (motorcycles, buses, trucks, cards, bicycles, etc.) zooming in both directions and sometimes driving on both sides of the roads. Take no heed of the fact that they don't look at you or acknowledge your existence. Get over the fact that it appears they will run right over you without a thought. Take a deep breath and say a prayer. Are your earthly affairs in order? Step into traffice S-L-O-W-L-Y. Notice now that they really don't want to hit you and that they will move arround you. By moving slowly you give thim a chance to miss you, which they do. Keep moving and remain alert. Avoid buses, they don't slow down and honk a lot. Keep going and . . . you made it. This takes some practice and is not for someone who is hypertensive.

Phnom Penh

Bus from Siem Reap to Phnom Penh was fine although I couldn't get comfortable. The highlight of our trip was a nice restaurant that quickly became a "no" because everyone there was eating rice and crickets. Students were further put off when the bus attendant stopped to buy grilled spider for everyone to try. Nope, I passed. You only eat the legs by the way.

A van was waiting for us at the bus station which was merciful. The bus station is unbelievable. Tuk tuk drivers literally try to grab your luggage, they certainly enjoyed trying to grab the girls. The girls handled themselves quite well.

Phnom Penh (PP) is an interesting study in contrasts and it's because of the Khmer Rouge. The city was evacuated in 1974 and was not repopulated until 1979. I thought I saw one building that was over three stories and it is under construction. The streets have that Asian smell which wears on me as much as I like it here. It's the smell of auto, tuk tuk, and bus fumes mixed with garbage, feces, urine, and spices from outdoor cooking.

The government can't seem to get anything done with water, sewage, and garbage control. So many people spend so much time on the streets and the stuff piles up.

You may wonder why I brought the students here. The answer is that they need to see how people in Southeast Asia in the 21st century and how a despot can destroy everything.

I really love the Constitution and the Bill of Rights. My experience here reminds me that those documents are some of the most profound ever written by the hand of man. Our freedom, our dignity, and our rights as humans are protected. Not so under Pol Pot who finally died in 1989.

I took the students to both the Killing Fields and S-21 memorials. There was a lot of chatter among the group until we got inside the Killing Fields to find Pagoda filled with skulls. It is estimated that 17,000 people were executed and buried at the Killing Fields. The property is littered with depressions that served as their mass graves. Signs indicate how many people were buried in them. Loud speakers and chemicals were used to cover the sound of peoply dying and the subsequent stench. There was no more talking.

S-21 is a former high school in downtown PP where Cambodians were interrogated and tortured. Some rooms have what was found in them, minus the bodies. Other rooms were filled with pictures of victims; men, women, and children. There were hundreds of manicles.

Half-way through S21 I had experienced about all I could handle. I felt strongly that the students needed to see this, me too. Yep, I'm a fan of the Constitution and Bill of rights. I may start humming that old Lee Greenwood song, "I'm proud to be an American where at least I know I'm free." Thank God.

Overall, I like PP and our place where we stay is excellent. This is a vibrant and alive place where the streets are crowded and people are trying to get on with their lives and find some success. I wish we could help them a bit more than we do.

Travelling here is tough and it wears on you. It's showing on the students. The heat, smell, different food, and moving around a lot takes it's toll. K. Decker and Neely Edwards had a rough day. But I think everyone has had times when it's been rough on them. I will say they've done a good job remaining happy and optimistic.

I think there are some changed people with me. Tonel Sap Lake really got to some of the students (Siem Reap area). The level of poverty unnerved them and they didn't like looking at it. I think they would all tell you that they've had a good time and learned much. I thought our girl Krissy Yapaolo expressed everyone's sentiments, they are glad the came, had a good learning experience, but it may be a while before they come back. However, I think Mike has gotten the bug and Declan has really really enjoyed himself. It's a lot to take in for everybody.

Next we travel by bus to Ho Chi Minh City (HCMC), then on to Bangkok, and then home a week from now. Everyone has remarked about how fast time goes.

Great Day at Angkor Wat

Well the title is not exactly true. There are many man temples in the area of Angkor Wat each with a different name. Early this a.m. we went to Ta Prom where Tomb Raider was shot. It was amazing. The Kapok trees have grown for 300 years on top of the structure with roots reaching down into the ground. It was an eerie kind of beauty but beautiful and exotic.

I am constntly amazed by the quality of relief work to be seen on the temples. The detail is impressive, even for 1,000 years ago.

The temples are all different qnd have a quality and character of their own. One that is called the women's temple is built of a pink limestone. No one seems to know where it was brought in from but the stone is beautiful as is the detailed carvings that you find everywhere.

I thought I would be most impressed by Angkor Wat which has been restored and preserved, but it is some of the other lesser known temples that really caught my attention, i. e., Bayon. Bayon has a real aura of mystery with dark narrow hallways and walls filled with detailed reliefs, i. e., carvings of religious themes on walls. All were impressed with it.

Today it rained on the way back out to the temples after lunch. None of the women chose to go, big surprise. Massages, pool, naps, and shopping got the better of them.

It was 30 km back out to the furtherst temple and it was a great ride through small village, rice fields, homes, and shops. The rain mercifully cooled things for the old guy.

Our tuk tuk drivers are wonderful. They are knowledgeable and kind and their English is good. We enjoyed teaching them such useful Americana as "hitch a ride", "whassup", "how's it goin". They seem to enjoy us and we have certainly become fond of them.

Cambodia seems to me to be in recovery mode. Nearly everyone I talk to here lost someone in the Pol Pot wars, as they call it. One of our guides' father was killed when he was four and our other guide vividly remembers the death and destruction of things as a child. It's only been since 1999 when the Vietnames withdrew which was not long after Pol Pot died. The Khmer Rouge killed everyone with an education in a paranoid attempt to create a totally agricultural society.

So, little things like garbage pick up, clean water, sewers, schools, etc. are a real mess. While I support American troops as the best and most honorable in the world our withdrawl created a vaccum which created the opportunity for Pol Pot. Cambodia will make it through their hard work and determination, but they have a long way to go. It' a good place though with friendly people and awsome culture, music, and food. I wish Americans and Cambodians could be better friends.

Smokin In Cambodia

After a wonderful visit in KL we caught a 7 a.m. flight to Siem Reap. Remind me to not book this flight no matter what the cost. We left at 3 a.m. Need I say more?

Arrived 8 a.m. Siem Reap. The Villa where where are staying is perfect. Nice rooms, good coffee, food, laundry and service. My only complaint is that they don't have computers for internet use but they do have wireless.

After checking in we were taken to see the floating village on Tonle Sap Lake. The students got a real eye opener, this is the real Southeast Asia. There is so much poverty and such primitive condition, no sewers, lots of water borne diseases, no safe drinking water, malaria, dengue fever, naked children running around, plenty of filth. I'm glad everyone got to see that, didn't enjoy that part one bit but it was a good thing to see.

The lake was fascinating as was the floating village. People live on boats in the middle of the lake. They fish and eat Water Hibuscus along with rice and noodles which they buy with the fish they catch.

Today, Monday, we visited Angkor Wat and Bayon temple complexes. I thought both were amazing. Angkor Wat is better preserved. The stone work on both is amazing along with the stone reliefs we found. The artistry and detail were just amazing. This has been on my "bucket list"since I saw the movie. I was very glad to finally get to see it.

I nearly melted and got a bit dehydrated and dizzy. I'm better now.

More later.

A Bit of Catching Up

I haven't blogged much lately because we've been busy and because there is only one computer in our hotel.

We left Singapore last Wednesday without breakfast and walked to the Golden Mile Bus Terminal. I did manage coffee thanks to Neely. It's a $30 dollar ride across the bridge into Johor Bahru which is the most southern pennisular Malaysia state. We went out of Singapore immigration and directly into Malaysian immigration. So, the students now have new passport stamps.

The trip to KL was about 6 hours with a stop for fruit along the way. I'll have to admit to being pretty hungry by the time we arrived. The bus drop, not really a station, is Pudra Raya. Basically, they stop the bus, you hop out, and you flag down a cab. This was a new and helpful, if not intimidating, experience for the students. We had teksi prep before arrival.

We have been staying at the University of Malaya which is the top university in Malaysia. My friend Dr. LooSee Beh has treated us royally. We had a nice visit with her faculty yesterday and then took a van to Putra Jaya.

Putra Jaya is pretty amazing. The government of Malaysia is moving administrative offices from the hustle and bustle of KL to this new city. It's about 12 years old and not yet finished. It is an carefully planned city designed to impress foreign investors, government representatives, etc. I suppose Kristin Froemling with her interests in visual communication would enjoy the conscious effort to portray Malaysia as a happening place. I'll post pictures if/when I can get to a faster connection.

One highlight of this venture was a boat ride through the man made lake to see the impressive array of buildings, agencies, corporate buildings, and mosques. One mosque, based on one in Baghdad, is complete and holds some 10,000 worshipers. Another is being constructed which is to hold 20,000 and, I am told, is the size of a football field. There are seven bridges in this developing city, each designed on the theme of a famous bridge in another country. So, one of them draws from the Golden Gate Bridge in San Francisco.

There's another new community nearby which is called Cyberjaya. This is a sort of planned Silicon Valley project designed to produced technological innovation and investment. By the way, Jaya means "success". So, cyber success.

The food here is very good and diverse: Malaysian, Indian, and Chinese. Of course, there are various groups of each culture and often the food is a fusion of Indian, Chinese, and Malayian. Last night more traditional Chinese with Professor Beh.

I think the students are holding up pretty well although last night I thought everyone was tired and I'll admit that I was too. Today is a free day and I think some will go to Batu Caves and National Mosque. I'll have lunch with Dr. Beh and then return early.

We leave at 3 a.m. for the airport and our flight to Siem Reap. Part of the problem is that the airport is about 60 km from KL and so we must leave early.

I'll have more to say from Siem Reap.

Off to Malaysia

It's 7:00 a.m. in Singapore and we are taking a bus to Kuala Lumpur at 8:30.

I had received information that the place we were scheduled to stay in KL had bedbugs. I don't think I slept for two nights thinking aboutit. I was also frustrated that my emails seeking to confirm our reservations and to ask about the situation were ignored. We'll lose the $50 deposit but that's a small price to pay. Basically, I was thinking from the "dad" perspective and wondering what I would want if it was Katie and Kelsey.

So, my friend Lucy Beh at the University of Malaya booked us rooms at her university. They are slightly more but I think worth the peace of mind. All have air con, towels, coffee, hairdryers, etc.

A nice meeting yesterday at IPRS. My friend Bhavani is the president and a minister of communication for the government of Singapore. I thought she did an artful job of dodging direct questions about freedom of speech. In one comment she says, "You can say anything." But in another she lists the things you can't say. One value of the trip is a renewed love of the Constitution. You never appreciate what you have until you are in a place that doesn't.

Students will find that Malaysia has it's own communication issues, including some very basic conflicts between the Chinese and Malaysian (Bumiputra) peoples. Malaysia is a constitutional monarchy that is Islamic (Sunni). It presents an interesting cultural communication problem.

The ride is 4 plus hours but the bus is air con and comfy. I plan a nap before the crazyness of KL Pudra Raya bus station. I let you know if we get there with everyone (just kidding).

Just Call Me Willie

One of the things students want to know is what to call me. I said well you don't have to call me Dr. Kennan. So, one of our number came up with the idea of calling me Willie. I allowed as how she might be the first student in the course to receive an "F". This seemed to discourage the Willie idea for now. I suggested "Sir" which doesn't seem to have gotten much traction just yet but I'm hoping for the best.

Our group toured the Singapore Botanical Gardens yesterday (it's 6 a.m. Monday the 12th now). I think some of the group got bored quickly but the quality of the gardens are spectacular for anybody who likes gardening. The lanscaping is perfect, so clean and well kept everywhere you look. The variety of plants and trees is just amazing. In particular, the Orchid Garden is really amazing and I could have stayed there all day. Sara Franklin noted that the park was open until 7 p.m. and I think I must have said something like, "OK, let's stay until it closes." That suggestion was not well received.

I ought to make note of the VIP orchids which are new varieties named for famous people. So, there is the Laura Bush orchid with her picture accepting the honor. There is one for Kofi Annan, Margaret Thatcher, etc., and all are quite beautiful.

A small group went with me to Orchard Road (major shopping area) to a restaurant called Dim Tai Fung. It is without a doubt the best Chinese restaurant I have eaten at and it's apparerntly well thought of world wide. It's moderately priced and, in particular, the dumplings are just out of this world. I really enjoyed watching the chefs making the food, they are really dedicated to their craft.

Food is so important here. There are, of course, wonderful places which represent their cultures: Chinese, Malaysian, Indian, Peranakin, etc. But there is also this wonderful fusion of cuisines and cultures so that you find the most unique and tastey ideas in cooking.

I am always amazed that a single party democracy works as well as it does. It's clean and it's safe here and the government is always attending to something: new roads, buses, MRT stops, shopping, dining . . . everything. I understand that some people are suspicious of the government because it does, in subtle and not so subtle ways, limit the freedom of individuals. The tradeoff is safety, security, benefits, and economic success. At least the government here can make decisions and get things done. For example, the government is to spend $40 billion on transportation to improve the MRT, roads, and buses. In Virginia the state government has been trying for several years without success to agree to a comprehensive transportation package for Nothern Virginia without success. Perhaps we should invite the Singaporeans to come help us out.

Today, we visit National University of Singapore and Dr. Linda Perry for some talk about communication in Singapore. The program there prepares professional communicators very much as does our program at RU. I think it's great for the students to meet their counterparts who study and teach the same discipline in which they are majors.

Tomorrow we'll me with IPRS Singapore and the head of public relations for the Singaporean government. Wednesday we bus to Kuala Lumpur and begin to experience the joys and frustrations of the real Southeast Asia. I say that because Singapore is Asia 101 but good preparation for what is to come. I'm waiting for the first trip challenge, I'll let you know.

All the best to all.

A Day in Singapore

Michael Johnson arrived about 1 a. m. from his flight and actually on the date/time he was supposed to arrive. Anyway all are here and everybody is safe for anybody who is wondering.

Sort of an odd day after staying up all night. Many went to Sentosa Island and were disappointed with the beach experience. It is, after all, a man made beach that looks out on ships waiting to come into one of the largest ports in the world. I would be surprised if they returned. After my one visit I had had enough.

The lessons about communication and culture are everywhere. Anyone who has ever read Edward T. Hall's Silent Language remembers the part about personal space and how violations of that space create personal discomfort. Just jump (force your way into) on any MRT during a busy time and experience the violation of American personal space requirements. We were going down to the Esplanade area for a quick walk by the river and then dinner. The MRT ride to City Hall was literally packed. I think it bothered our group but is normal for Singaporeans. The feeling of discomfort is culturally based and I'll have to admit that it bothers me even though I read the book and it get it.

Also, the students are learning that Americans are not necessarily loved by everyone. This is a theme that will extend throughout Southeast Asia, more on that as the trip progresses.

Tomorrow we'll walk through Little India, Chinatown, and perhaps the National Botanical Gardens. There's some talk of the Night Safari tomorrow night which I will sit out, having been there before with my family but it is definitely an enjoyable if pricey experience.

Owning a Car in Singapore

The owner of our hostel is named Kevin. He and his wife Monica just bought a new Nissan (very cute). The car was $20,000SD. The taxes were $45,000SD and will cover 10 years and then, if they keep the car, it's another $45,000SD. These taxes are paid up front. This is why there are no old cars in Singapore.

On top of this there is at least $2,000SD for road taxes and gas is about $8SD per gallon (approximately).

Additionally, there's a device in the car that has a card in it. During peak driving hours you are charged extra to drive in high traffic zones.

To park you buy cards on which you indicate you arrival and estimated departure time. They are $1SD each and you get a ticket if you don't leave one on your dash.

Surprisingly, given the cost, there are plenty of cars in Singapore, almost all new. See, Americans shouldn't complain about the cost of gas.

Chronologically Challenged

So, it's 2:30 a.m. May 10 in Singapore and I am asleep (after a very nice dinner with one of the guesthouse owners here and Lauren and Faye) when I hear voices outside more door with lots of commotion. I thought somebody had come in on a very late flight because I KNEW that the students would arrive the next evening as they had all written in my planning book, May 10 11:55 p.m., Flight 803 United Airlines, Terminal 1. Wrong! It was them!

After the commotion is over, everyone in the place awake, and I finally wake up everybody realizes they gave me the wrong arrival day! I didn't know whether to hug them or kill them and get it over with. Parents will be pleased to know that no one was injured, no bumps, bruises, or contusions. Everybody is well.

So, we decided to stay up (no room at the proverbial inn) although I think Katherine Decker and Camille Miles are in my bed sleeping. The rest of us found an all night Chinese place to wait out the wee hours. As I write, it is now 5:31 a.m. on May 10th a mere 18 hours before their stated arrival time. Grrrrrrrr and %$#*!^% to you this fine morning! Love 'em though, just love 'em.

Started raining while we were out, a bit damp but ok. We'll get coffee later this a.m. I think the group wants to go to the beach at Sentosa Island.

Arrived Safely in Singapore

An uneventful but extremely long flight to Singapore. The sleeping pill helped on the flight from Chicago to Narita, Tokyo and the nearly empty flight to Singapore allowed me to stretch out and crash.

I met Lauren Coleman and Faye Holliday at the airport and we rode in together, arriving about 2:30 p. m. at our lodging, Sleepy Sam's. Our place is a guesthouse next to Sultan Mosque not far from downtown Singapore. It's in a very safe area, clean, well-managed, and quiet.

Of course, I couldn't sleep, I never can after that flight, so I was up early.

I walk Singapore today and find something interesting to eat. Hello to all.

Departing Tomorrow

I am on my way to Singapore tomorrow morning May 7th at 6:18 a.m. I am not looking forward to the long layover in Chicago and the longer flight to Tokyo. I always have trouble sleeping on those flights, perhaps the Ambien the doctor gave me will help a bit.

I am looking forward to my return as so much has changed since my last visit in 2006. Now there's a food crisis, the dollar is weaker against currencies there, there's been a coup in Thailand, chewing gum has been available in Singapore for nearly two years, etc. I'm also looking forward to the sights and sounds of Southeast Asia as well as to the food and culture there. I'm not sure I'm quite ready for the heat. It is about 65 degrees in Radford this morning and over 90 in Singapore during the day.

More upon arrival in Singapore.